Spring Skin Reset: How to Repair Your Skin Barrier After a Harsh Winter

·

by

Skin Skeptic

As winter fades, your skin may be sending you signals: tightness, dullness, flakiness, and extra sensitivity. This isn’t random—your skin barrier has likely taken a hit from months of dry air, indoor heating, and harsh wind. Spring is the perfect time to reset your skincare routine, and there is plenty of science that informs us how to do it.

What Is the Skin Barrier and Why Does It Matter?

Your skin barrier—technically called the stratum corneum—is your body’s first line of defense. It’s like a brick wall: dead skin cells are the bricks, and lipids like ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids act as the mortar. A healthy barrier keeps moisture in and irritants out.

Image Source: Cleveland Clinic. Dermis – What Is the Dermis? Retrieved from Cleveland Clinic.

But winter air is low in humidity and high in stressors. Research shows that cold, dry weather leads to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), weakening your skin’s barrier and making it more prone to dryness and irritation. One study found that TEWL levels were significantly higher in winter than in summer, especially in people with sensitive skin.

Your Skin Changes With the Seasons

Just like we swap sweaters for t-shirts, our skincare can shift with the weather too. In winter, skin tends to be drier and benefits from thick, occlusive products. But spring usually brings more humidity—so skin might become oilier or more acne-prone, even if it still feels sensitive after the winter months.

That means now is a great time to pare back, simplify, and focus on ingredients that rebuild and protect your skin barrier.

Key Ingredients for Repairing the Skin Barrier

Let’s break down the four types of ingredients that help support and restore a damaged skin barrier—each backed by clinical research.

1. Humectants: The Hydration Heroes

Humectants attract water to the skin, helping plump it up and relieve tightness. The most common ones include:

A 2008 study found that glycerin significantly improves skin hydration and elasticity in dry skin types. These ingredients work best when applied to damp skin and sealed in with a moisturizer.

2. Emollients: Smoothing and Softening

Emollients fill in the gaps between skin cells, making the skin feel smoother and more flexible. Look for ingredients like:

  • Squalane
  • Shea butter
  • Caprylic/capric triglycerides

They’re especially helpful in improving skin texture and soothing irritation. A 2003 review confirmed that emollients can help reduce TEWL and maintain a healthy lipid barrier.

3. Barrier Builders: Replenish What’s Missing

To rebuild the “mortar” in your skin’s barrier, look for moisturizers that contain:

One study found that moisturizers mimicking the natural lipid ratio of healthy skin (ceramides:cholesterol:fatty acids in a 3:1:1 ratio) led to faster barrier recovery and reduced inflammation.

4. Multitaskers: Calm + Hydrate + Strengthen

Some ingredients work overtime to repair the skin:

  • Niacinamide reduces inflammation and boosts ceramide production.
  • Urea hydrates while gently exfoliating dry, flaky skin.
  • Panthenol promotes healing and soothes sensitivity.

Studies have found that niacinamide stimulates ceramide production in the skin which helps strengthen the barrier, as well as supressing inflammatory processes. Urea, often found in body creams, has been found to be helpful for dry skin and eczema. Panthenol has been shown to reduce irritation and improve skin hydration.

What to Avoid While Your Barrier Heals

While your barrier is vulnerable, avoid over-exfoliating, scrubbing, or using harsh actives like:

  • High concentrations of retinoids
  • Strong AHAs/BHAs
  • Potent vitamin C serums

Instead, simplify. Use a gentle cleanser, layer hydrating serums, and finish with a barrier-repair moisturizer. And don’t skip sunscreen—UV exposure damages the skin barrier, even in spring.

How Long Does It Take to See Results?

Studies have shown that using barrier-repairing moisturizers can reduce TEWL and improve skin hydration in as little as 2 weeks.

Final Thoughts

Skin changes with the seasons—and our routines should too. Spring is the ideal time to transition away from heavy winter creams and toward gentle, hydrating, barrier-supportive ingredients. With the right products and a little science on your side, you can help your skin recover from winter stress and prep it for sunnier days ahead.

You’ve reached the end of this article. Thanks for reading! Hope you found this helpful.

The information in this article is for informational purposes and is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice. Always seek the advice of your physician regarding a medical condition or treatment.

Sources

  • Alexander, H., Brown, S., Danby, S., & Flohr, C. (2018). Research Techniques Made Simple: Transepidermal Water Loss Measurement as a Research Tool. The Journal of investigative dermatology, 138(11), 2295–2300.e1. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jid.2018.09.001
  • Byun, H. J., Cho, K. H., Eun, H. C., Lee, M. J., Lee, Y., Lee, S., & Chung, J. H. (2012). Lipid ingredients in moisturizers can modulate skin responses to UV in barrier-disrupted human skin in vivo. Journal of dermatological science, 65(2), 110–117. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2011.12.005
  • Chen, H. J., Lee, P. Y., Chen, C. Y., Huang, S. L., Huang, B. W., Dai, F. J., Chau, C. F., Chen, C. S., & Lin, Y. S. (2022). Moisture retention of glycerin solutions with various concentrations: a comparative study. Scientific reports, 12(1), 10232. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-022-13452-2
  • Cleveland Clinic. (2022, June 17). Emollients: Creams, soaps, moisturizers, ointments, benefits. Cleveland Clinic. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/treatments/23305-emollients
  • Coderch, L., López, O., de la Maza, A., & Parra, J. L. (2003). Ceramides and skin function. American journal of clinical dermatology, 4(2), 107–129. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304020-00004
  • Declair V. (1997). The usefulness of topical application of essential fatty acids (EFA) to prevent pressure ulcers. Ostomy/wound management, 43(5), 48–54.
  • Draelos, Z. D., Diaz, I., Namkoong, J., Wu, J., & Boyd, T. (2021). Efficacy Evaluation of a Topical Hyaluronic Acid Serum in Facial Photoaging. Dermatology and therapy, 11(4), 1385–1394. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-021-00566-0
  • Ebner, F., Heller, A., Rippke, F., & Tausch, I. (2002). Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders. American journal of clinical dermatology, 3(6), 427–433. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200203060-00005
  • Gabros S, Patel P, Zito PM. Sunscreens and Photoprotection. [Updated 2025 Mar 28]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2025 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK537164/
  • Jeffrey Rajkumar, Neha Chandan, Peter Lio, Vivian Shi; The Skin Barrier and Moisturization: Function, Disruption, and Mechanisms of Repair. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 13 November 2023; 36 (4): 174–185. https://doi.org/10.1159/000534136
  • Lodén M. (2003). Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American journal of clinical dermatology, 4(11), 771–788. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200304110-00005
  • Piquero-Casals, J., Morgado-Carrasco, D., Granger, C., Trullàs, C., Jesús-Silva, A., & Krutmann, J. (2021). Urea in Dermatology: A Review of its Emollient, Moisturizing, Keratolytic, Skin Barrier Enhancing and Antimicrobial Properties. Dermatology and therapy, 11(6), 1905–1915. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-021-00611-y
  • Samadi, A., Ahmad Nasrollahi, S., Maghsoudi Ashtiani, M., Abels, C., & Firooz, A. (2020). Changes in skin barrier function following single and repeated applications of 4 types of moisturizers: a randomized controlled trial. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology : JEADV, 34(6), e288–e290. https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.16288
  • Tanno, O., Ota, Y., Kitamura, N., Katsube, T., & Inoue, S. (2000). Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. The British journal of dermatology, 143(3), 524–531. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2000.03705.x
  • Yanez, M., Jhanji, M., Murphy, K., Gower, R. M., Sajish, M., & Jabbarzadeh, E. (2019). Nicotinamide Augments the Anti-Inflammatory Properties of Resveratrol through PARP1 Activation. Scientific reports, 9(1), 10219. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-019-46678-8
  • Zettersten, E. M., Ghadially, R., Feingold, K. R., Crumrine, D., & Elias, P. M. (1997). Optimal ratios of topical stratum corneum lipids improve barrier recovery in chronologically aged skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 37(3 Pt 1), 403–408. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0190-9622(97)70140-3