Today, we’re breaking down a 12-week case study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (July 2022) that examined the effects of a novel formulation combining retinol, niacinamide, and Terminalia chebula extract.
This study included 38 women between the ages of 35 and 65 who used a simple regimen:
- Cleanser + sunscreen in the morning
- Cleanser + the test product (retinol-based) at night, followed by moisturizer as needed
The product was introduced gradually — 3x/week for 2 weeks, then nightly. No one reported irritation.
Key Takeaways:
- Improvements were tracked using Canfield Visia® imaging, dermatologist assessments, and participant self-assessments.
- By week 12, there were statistically significant improvements in fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation.
- The inclusion of Terminalia chebula (a plant antioxidant with anti-glycation effects) may have enhanced retinol’s efficacy while minimizing irritation.
Skeptic Notes:
- No control group: Without a placebo or comparison to standalone retinol, we can’t isolate which ingredient did what.
- Small sample size: 38 participants = limited generalizability.
- Product supplied by brand: The study was supported by PCA Skin and Colgate-Palmolive, which may introduce bias.
- Images not included here: Actual before-and-after photos can be viewed in the original study.
Final Thoughts:
The results are encouraging — especially the lack of irritation. While Terminalia chebula is a rising star, we need more head-to-head trials to know how it really compares. For now, this case gives us food for thought (and some new ingredient combos to keep an eye on).
This breakdown is part of the Skin Skeptic: Case Studies series, where we investigate real clinical trials and ingredient claims with a critical eye.
You’ve reached the end of this article. Thanks for reading! Hope you found this helpful.
The information in this article is for informational purposes and is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice. Always seek the advice of your physician regarding a medical condition or treatment.
Sources
Bag, A., Bhattacharyya, S. K., & Chattopadhyay, R. R. (2013). The development of Terminalia chebula Retz. (Combretaceae) in clinical research. Asian Pacific journal of tropical biomedicine, 3(3), 244–252. https://doi.org/10.1016/S2221-1691(13)60059-3
Handler, M., Adams-Woodford, A., Ayres, P., Giancola, G., & Diaz, I. (2022). Facial Aging Improvement Case Study Using a Novel Combination of Retinol, Niacinamide, and Terminalia Chebula. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 21(7), 784–788. https://doi.org/10.36849/JDD.6621
Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348. https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327