You May Be Sensitive to Niacinamide: Here’s What You Need to Know

Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3 that has quickly become a skincare powerhouse. Vitamin B3, or Niacin, was first discovered in the early 1900s as a crucial nutrient for preventing conditions like pellagra which is a disease caused by Vitamin B3 deficiency. We know that our bodies need essential vitamins and Niacin (also known…

Skin Skeptic

Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3 that has quickly become a skincare powerhouse. Vitamin B3, or Niacin, was first discovered in the early 1900s as a crucial nutrient for preventing conditions like pellagra which is a disease caused by Vitamin B3 deficiency. We know that our bodies need essential vitamins and Niacin (also known as nicotinic acid) is the form of vitamin B3 that is found in food and supplements. Unlike fat-soluble vitamins, which get stored in the liver and adipose (fat) tissues, niacin is water-soluble, so it dissolves in water and gets directly absorbed into the aqueous bloodstream. Excess gets excreted in urine, so regular dietary intake is required. Niacin is important for our overall health, including our metabolism, cardiovascular system, and nervous system function. When consumed, our bodies converts vitamin B3 into NAD+ (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide) in the liver. NAD+ is crucial for turning the food we eat, especially sugar, into energy. It helps break down sugar through a process called glycolysis, turns it into usable energy in the TCA cycle (also known as the citric acid cycle), and helps generate even more energy through oxidative phosphorylation (ring any high school biology class bells?). NAD+ also plays a key role in DNA repair, keeping our cells healthy and functioning properly.

Niacinamide (aka nicotinamide) is the derivative of niacin that is primarily used in topical skincare products.

In the lab, niacinamide is synthesized through a process that involves converting niacin into nicotinamide through chemical reactions. While niacinamide can be derived from plant sources, most of the niacinamide used in skincare products is synthesized synthetically to meet demand and ensure consistency. Companies often buy niacinamide in bulk from suppliers (e.g., BASF) and then incorporate it into their skincare products.

What’s Happening at the Cell Level?

Before we answer this question, we need to note that when niacinamide is part of a skincare product it doesn’t travel alone. It works alongside other ingredients that enhance its effects, help with absorption (vehicle), and help prevent irritation. The overall effectiveness of niacinamide is influenced by the concentration and/or specific combination of ingredients in the product.

Niacinamide is absorbed through the stratum corneum (the outermost layer) and into the epidermis, where it interacts with the keratinocytes (skin cells). Niacinamide primarily acts in the epidermis (basal and spinosum layers), where it influences cell turnover and barrier function.

Image Source: Cleveland Clinic. Dermis – What Is the Dermis? Retrieved from Cleveland Clinic.

What Does Niacinamide Do to the Skin?

The key action behind niacinamide’s promises—reducing inflammation, improving skin tone, and boosting the skin’s barrier function—is backed by research. Studies have shown that niacinamide can regulate keratinocyte function in the epidermis by stimulating ceramide production. Our skin is made up of proteins, water, and lipids (fats), which help maintain its structure and function. Ceramides are essential lipids in the stratum corneum that help maintainin the skin’s barrier by regulating water permeability and in turn, moisture retention. Niacinamide’s ability to prevent excess sebum production has also been studied. Niacinamide has also been found to inhibit pro-inflammatory cytokines (internally and externally), which are involved in inflammatory processes like acne and rosacea. Niacinamide suppresses NF-κB activation, a key pathway that drives inflammation. This decrease the release of cytokines like IL-1, IL-6, and TNF-α, which contribute to conditions like acne and rosacea. It has also been studied how niacinamide can indirectly inhibit T-cell differentiation into inflammatory subtypes.

Can You Sensitive to Niacinamide?

While niacinamide is generally well-tolerated, some individuals may be sensitive to it. Sensitivity can manifest as:

Redness: Niacinamide can trigger an inflammatory response in sensitive skin, especially when the skin barrier is compromised.

Stinging, Burning, Itching: This is often reported in those with weakened skin barriers because the niacinamide can penetrate deeper than usual, activating keratinocytes which can irritate the deeper layers of this skin.

Note: If you’re using a product that’s causing irritation, it’s important to consider the ingredients—niacinamide is in a lot of products, and you may not even realize it. Many popular skincare brands include niacinamide in their formulations.

Popular Brand Products That Include Niacinamide

  • CeraVe:  Foaming Facial Cleanser, Daily Moisturizing Lotion, CeraVe AM Facial Moisturizing Lotion with SPF 30, CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion
  • Cetaphil: Moisturizing Lotion, Gentle Skin Cleanser, Daily Facial Moisturizer SPF 35
  • La Roche-Posay: Toleriane Purifying Foaming Facial Cleanser, Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Face Cleanser, Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer with and without SPF, Lipikar AP+ Triple Repair Moisturizing Cream, Lipikar AP+ Gentle Foaming Moisturizing Wash, Toleriane Double Repair Matte Face Moisturizer
  • Olay: Regenerist Micro Sculp Cream

How to Know If Niacinamide Works for You

  • Patch Test: Always patch test new products on a small area of skin before applying them to your face.
  • Start with Lower Concentrations: If you have sensitive skin, start with products that contain lower concentrations of niacinamide (around 2- 5%) and gradually increase as your skin becomes more accustomed to it.
  • Elimination: If your current skincare routine includes products containing niacinamide, try niacinamide-free alternatives and see if anything improves.
  • Consult a Dermatologist: To get personalized recommendations for your skin, especially if you continue to experience irritation.

Sources

  • Bernard, F. X., Morel, F., Camus, M., Pedretti, N., Barrault, C., Garnier, J., & Lecron, J. C. (2012). Keratinocytes under Fire of Proinflammatory Cytokines: Bona Fide Innate Immune Cells Involved in the Physiopathology of Chronic Atopic Dermatitis and Psoriasis. Journal of allergy, 2012, 718725. https://doi.org/10.1155/2012/718725
  • Castanedo-Cazares, J. P., Lárraga-Piñones, G., Ehnis-Pérez, A., Fuentes-Ahumada, C., Oros-Ovalle, C., Smoller, B. R., & Torres-Álvarez, B. (2013). Topical niacinamide 4% and desonide 0.05% for treatment of axillary hyperpigmentation: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 6, 29–36. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S39246
  • Cleveland Clinic. (n.d.). Pellagra. Cleveland Clinic. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/diseases/23905-pellagra
  • Draelos, Z. D., Matsubara, A., & Smiles, K. (2006). The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of cosmetic and laser therapy : official publication of the European Society for Laser Dermatology, 8(2), 96–101. https://doi.org/10.1080/14764170600717704
  • Makarov, M. V., Trammell, S. A. J., & Migaud, M. E. (2019). The chemistry of the vitamin B3 metabolome. Biochemical Society transactions, 47(1), 131–147. https://doi.org/10.1042/BST20180420
  • Meckfessel, M. H., & Brandt, S. (2014). The structure, function, and importance of ceramides in skin and their use as therapeutic agents in skin-care products. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 71(1), 177–184. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2014.01.891
  • Meyer-Ficca, M., & Kirkland, J. B. (2016). Niacin. Advances in nutrition (Bethesda, Md.), 7(3), 556–558. https://doi.org/10.3945/an.115.011239
  • Redzic S, Hashmi MF, Gupta V. Niacin Deficiency. [Updated 2023 Jul 25]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2025 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK557728/
  • Surber, C., & Kottner, J. (2017). Skin care products: What do they promise, what do they deliver. Journal of tissue viability, 26(1), 29–36. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jtv.2016.03.006
  • Surjana, D., Halliday, G. M., & Damian, D. L. (2010). Role of nicotinamide in DNA damage, mutagenesis, and DNA repair. Journal of nucleic acids, 2010, 157591. https://doi.org/10.4061/2010/157591
  • Tanno, O., Ota, Y., Kitamura, N., Katsube, T., & Inoue, S. (2000). Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. The British journal of dermatology, 143(3), 524–531. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2000.03705.x
  • Ungerstedt, J. S., Blömback, M., & Söderström, T. (2003). Nicotinamide is a potent inhibitor of proinflammatory cytokines. Clinical and experimental immunology, 131(1), 48–52. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2249.2003.02031.x
  • Villines, T.C., Kim, A.S., Gore, R.S. et al. Niacin: The Evidence, Clinical Use, and Future Directions. Curr Atheroscler Rep 14, 49–59 (2012). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11883-011-0212-1
  • Yosipovitch, G., Misery, L., Proksch, E., Metz, M., Ständer, S., & Schmelz, M. (2019). Skin Barrier Damage and Itch: Review of Mechanisms, Topical Management and Future Directions. Acta dermato-venereologica, 99(13), 1201–1209. https://doi.org/10.2340/00015555-3296

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